Saturday, December 14, 2013

Using Regular Nail Polish with an LED gel nail kit

Well, I've finally done it. And what a victory it is!

Months and months of attempts and failures and awful-looking manicures, all for the sake of testing to find a viable solution. I blame frugality. The reality actually is I cannot (and will not be allowed to!) purchase a rainbow of gel nail colors for my LED gel nail kit, when I already own 100 regular-formula laquers.


Background
I bought the Mally 24/7 Professional Gel Nail Polish System off of QVC in June or July 2013. It seemed like a wonderful option to have great looking nails, but not have to wait for the drying time. This kit provided that for me, plus the long-term wearability I was looking for.

Prior to making my purchase, I had googled and done some research about being able to use regular polish with a gel nail kit. Previous testers online claimed it was possible. I was sold.

The kit itself (functioning only with the items provided) works great. I have no issues whatsoever with the application or the wear. In general, I find the Gel removal process to be very tedious and somewhat damaging to the nails, though. I use the tinfoil wrap method using acetone polish remover, which in itself works...but is cumbersome and, let's face it, annoying.


The Goals
After playing with the kit colors over a few weeks, I decided to attempt using my own regular-formula polish.

Ultimately, what I want from my Regular/LED polish manicure is the best of both worlds:
1. Shiny, hard top-coat, cured with the LED light.
2. Fast drying. I am AWFUL at sitting around waiting for my nails to dry, and even when I think they're dry, I somehow always end up with smudges or knicks.
3. Long-wearing. I'll be happy if I can get a week out of my nails without any chips. Gel manicures are known to last 10-14 days (and I've experienced this!), but honestly, I end up wanting to change my color before I even reach that point. However, having them look great until I want to change is ideal.
4. Quick and relatively painless removal process, if at all possible.
5. And finally, the ability to use my stash of already-accumulated regular-formula polishes so I don't have to re-buy colors I already love, but in their gel format.


The Experiments
Over the past months, I've experimented with various methods of layering. I've found them all to be sub-par, for various reasons.

Methods that I've tried that did NOT work for me:
1. The typical "gelly" sandwich.
Google it for specific details, but it basically involves 'sandwiching' a regular-formula polish in between the layers of gel base coat and top coat. The trick with this is letting each layer of regular-formula polish COMPLETELY dry between each coat.

The result: The gel base coat is sticky, so putting a regular-formula polish directly on top of it meant streaky and un-uniform results. Even with multiple layers, it was tricky to get it to look even. Additionally, my impatience got the best of me, and I know I didn't let each layer dry thoroughly enough. Ultimately, this led to poor wear and tear and some immediate wrinkling effects when I put the LED top coat on and cured it.

My thoughts: This method might work for someone who has the time/patience to let the regular polish dry between layers. But still, you have to work with the sticky base coat/streaky application issue. I'd pass.

2. LED gel base coat, no color, LED gel top coat.
Apply and cure both the base coat and top coat as the directions suggest. You're not putting on a color at all. In the end, you put your regular-formula colored polish on top of the cured LED gel top coat. Let it dry completely. End it all with another coat of the LED gel top coat.

The result: I found this method to be a bit better than the gelly sandwich. You're working with painting the regular-formula polish on a smooth and non-sticky surface (the cured LED top coat) which makes your results better, but again, you have to play the waiting game of drying time, which is my weakness. If you have no patience, you're going to end up with wrinkles! Additionally, my best friend mentioned that it's sort of wasteful to be using the LED gel top coat twice...especially given how pricey some of those specialty polishes can be!

My thoughts: Again, if I had the patience to let the polish completely dry, this method could work. But alas, I need a fast-dry solution. Also, when it comes to removal, you have to remove 3 layers of gel, which is a big negative for me.

There were a number of other methods / combinations that I attempted, all to less than superior results. I found my main (personal?) issue was waiting for that regular-formula polish to dry. I've read online that some people would do the manicure in two phases, for example, Phase 1: LED gel base coat, regular polish, and let dry completely overnight. Phase 2: Apply LED gel top coat and cure. OK, fine. That could work, but who has time for that?! Not me.


The Method that DID work
I came up with this method as I was getting annoyed with having to remove layers upon layers of Gel polish. That stuff is hardcore and durable, but just as hardcore to remove!

My supplies, listed in order below.


The supplies:
1. REGULAR clear base coat (any brand should work)
2. REGULAR-formula polish (any brand, whatever color you want your manicure to be)
3. REGULAR clear quick-dry top coat (any brand should work)
4. Quick-dry drops (any brand should work, I found these Essence ones for $2.99 at Ulta.)
5. LED Gel Top Coat
6. LED light
7. Nail cleanser (rubbing alcohol, or whatever comes with your kit and is labeled as such)
8. Optional: small tool for removing excess polish from cuticles as you go (a cuticle pusher could work, I used this small art decoration tool I found at Ulta by Essence.)

Notice that the only LED supplies are the top coat and the light. Assuming you work regularly with this method, the only thing you'll need to replace when you run out is the LED Gel Top Coat!

How to do it:
1. Apply the regular clear base coat onto clean, bare nails. Let dry.

2. Apply the regular-formula color of your choice. As always, thin layers are best. Let each layer dry between coats. (I'd say 5 minutes or so between each layer is sufficient, depending on the drying speed of the polish and the thickness of the layer). I did two coats of Essie's "Bobbing for Baubles" and got full opacity for this look.
Optional: If you get polish on your skin or cuticles, quickly work with your small metal art decoration tool to try to 'scrape' off the wet polish. This means if you get a little out of the lines on one stroke, pause the painting and work with the tool before it dries on your skin! This will help your manicure look even MORE professional!

3. Apply the clear quick-dry top coat (Seche Vite, Out the Door, Sally Hansen...whatever). Wait at least 2 minutes.

4.  Apply a drop or two of the quick dry drops to each nail. I applied it at the "base" of each nail bed (the rounded part or the 'moon'). Use a paper towel underneath your hands because this stuff is watery. The surface should be dry to the touch after 2 minutes or so, and the layers of polish underneath should be completely dry within 5-7 minutes. You must wait until you are confident those layers are thoroughly dry.

5. Wash your hands and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel to get the quick-dry drop liquid off the nails.

6. Apply the LED Gel Top Coat. Make sure you put some polish on the free edge too.

7. Cure as directed under the LED light. (My light has 3 buttons (30 seconds, 60 seconds, 90 seconds.) I cured mine for 90 seconds, hoping that will result in the longest wear for me.)

8. Use the rubbing alcohol or Nail Cleanser with a lint-free wipe to get the residue off the top coat.

9. You're done! Victory dance!

The final result!


Removal
What I love most about this method (in addition to being able to successfully use my regular-formula color collection!) is the removal.

You're going to need acetone to remove that top LED gel coat, but once that is off, you could use a less-damaging non-acetone polish remover to remove the rest of the layers!

Personally, I find it tedious to switch removers, so I just use the little dish that came with my Mally kit, though a small dish would work too. I fill it with acetone to the point that my nails are completely covered, and then just sit for a few minutes. I notice the color falling off in pieces into the liquid within about 5 minutes, which is fun to see. I use a cuticle pusher to get the clumpy bits off, and I use a cotton ball to help remove the polish. Again, once the LED gel top coat is off, you're home free and it's a super easy process!


In Summary
I tested several methods and found that my invented method works best for me. That's not to say that one of my "failed" methods won't work better for you. Additionally, I will say that I did not employ the use of the Quick-Dry Drops until my successful method was developed. Perhaps using them in combination with one of the "failed" methods would help to prevent the wrinkling I often experienced? Who knows. If you try it, let me know how it works.

After performing these many experiments, I will likely be sticking with my winning method as my preferred way to do my nails. I like that I can use not only my regular-formula polish, but also regular-formula base and top coats. Because of the use of the regular-formula, the removal process is a breeze. Also, I like that I can cure and get the long-wear I'm looking for with the LED top coat and light, but when I run out of supplies, I need only replace the LED top coat. Cha-ching!

Hope that helps you! Let me know if you try any of these methods and how it works for you!

Cheers!
xoxo
Kate


* NOTE * 
Sorry for the bad photos / lack of photos; it's hard to photograph while doing your own nails! Also, the links and recommended products are just what I have and what I've been using, but another LED gel nail kit such as the Red Carpet Nails Manicure Kit or the Sally Hanson Manicure Kit could work as well. I don't have personal experience with these products, but they get great reviews online.
Personally, when I run out of my Mally LED Gel Top Coat, I'll be finding a similar product replacement at my local Ulta. While the Mally product is great, there are tons of other similar products that are easily available, won't cost me shipping, and will work with LED light that I already own. 

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